As one of the largest towns in the north of the island, Rabat has so much to offer, it’s worth taking the time to discover its treasures.
Eight years ago (has it been that long?), my husband and I had reached the stage of trying to find the perfect home. We wanted to live in a central part of the island so, dutifully, we checked out everywhere on our list: Attard, Mosta, Lija, Balzan, Birkirkara, Siggiewi (I could go on) and, just as we were about to give up, our lovely real estate agent found us a haven in Rabat. I must admit, I knew nothing about the town, and my mum and sister weren’t too keen on me moving “all the way up there.” But we had fallen in love – not only with our new home, but with Rabat. Its little streets, historic sites, stunning restaurants and artistic soul had us in its thrall. We were here to stay. And this is what you must not miss in my hometown.
1. The village square
Rabat boasts one of the most impressive village cores on the island: dominated by the impressive Parish Church of St Paul, built partly on the eponymous saint’s grotto, the heart-shaped centre leaves little to be desired. Traditional bars line the arcade, an ice cream hole-in-the-wall will cool you down after a day sight-seeing and you can even hang around for dinner once the sun goes down. On the weekends, a traditional market, selling fruit and vegetables, is set up right outside the church, and, on Sunday mornings, a more hectic set of stalls line the streets, selling everything from scarves and shoes to general knick-knacks.
2. The museums and historic sites
You can throw a stone in Rabat, and it will land on a site of immense cultural and historical value. St Paul’s and St Agatha’s Catacombs can be found near the church, as can the Wignacourt Museum, built in 1749 and housing a collection of art, punic remains and part of the catacombs, which were used as war shelters during the Second World War. Step down there for a chilling reminder of the strife experienced by the islanders – the claustrophobic, chilly interior will make you thank god for the stunning sunshine outside.
3. The little streets
Rabat is full of tiny walkways, corners and surprising alleys. St Paul's Street, which leads from the village core in the direction of Malta’s silent former capital city, Mdina, is one not to miss. The road may be narrow, filled with pedestrians ignoring oncoming cars (really), but it is a pleasant short stroll to the ancient city – and a must on any itinerary. Cafes, restaurants – including the ever-popular Bottegin Xara Palace – line the road, but make sure you keep an eye out for the little church of Ta’ Giezu, built in 1500. Its roof collapsed last summer, but that has just increased the love shown for it!
4. The entertainment
One of the things we love most about living in Rabat is just how much you can do in the evenings. There are plenty of bars and restaurants – some of our favourites can be found on the steps lining Saqqajja Hill known as tat-Tarag – and the town is a short walk away from the fancy places within the walls of Mdina. On summer evenings, Rabat really comes alive, with musicians playing in the various watering holes, and in the open air, in sites such as Howard Gardens, just on the outskirts of the ancient capital.
5. The artists’ studios
If you’re looking for a souvenir to take home with you, Rabat offers the usual in kitsch, but if you’re looking for something a little more special, the artists operating from this town have created work you won’t find anywhere else. A favourite is Stephanie Borg, whose studio is found in the residential street of Santa Katarina, and whose work on Maltese tiles and traditional scenes will have you leaving her store with more than you planned. Another favourite is Sue Mifsud, whose pottery– mugs, plates, and even pagoda pots – will be long-loved and treasured.
6. The secrets
And, oh, there are so many of them. Rabat is the kind of town which has so many stories to tell that they seep out from the centre and, if you’re not careful, you might overlook that haunted house, the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it chapel or the etching on the wall from intrepid early graffiti artists. The gardens within St Dominic's Priory, framed by an impressive arched gallery, are a must-see, as is the abandoned building on Triq Nikola Saura: it’s ghostly shell has much to tell, though it will not surrender its secrets easily, I’m sure.
Main image: Clive Vella and www.viewingmalta.com