The colourful Mediterranean image of Malta is often brightened by the vibrant luzzu (loot-su) fishing boat, which is most certainly a Maltese icon alongside the likes of the Maltese bus and the Maltese cross.
It is easy to recognise the double-ended, wooden luzzu boats. Their bright hues of green, blue, red and yellow are said to correspond to the colours of the land, sea and sun. Every luzzu will have a different combination of these colours according to each owning family's traditions. In the past, before the need to register your boat, the colour of the ‘moustache’ - the band separating the top and bottom halves of the boat - indicated the boat’s home port.
Furthermore, superstition dictates that the eyes of Osiris (or Horus) are painted on the bow; no fisherman will dare ignore this protector from the dangers of the sea. The interpretations of this symbol are many. For the Phoenicians, who probably introduced it, it represented protection, royal power and good health. Locals believe it’s more closely connected to warding off the evil eye against a good catch. Some even believe it protects the boat from attacks by Great Whites who are intimidated by the unwavering stare!
The luzzu is made of wood. It is a strong and sturdy boat able to withstand rough seas. Most fishermen will prefer a skillfully built luzzu over a fibreglass boat any day. With diesel engines taking over the use of oars and sails, and longer distances needing to be covered in order to make a good catch, the boats have grown in size through the years.
Today, a trip to Marsaxlokk or Wied iz-Zurrieq will reveal the luzzu at work in all its glory. Fishermen are out before the crack of dawn and will return with the day’s catch to supply local restaurants and the Marsaxlokk fish market.
It is charming to witness the colourful luzzu boats returning to harbour, and the fishermen yelling to each other, while at port. Others mend their nets and cats gather hoping to win a good lunch. It is one of those timeless Mediterranean scenes which never grows old.
The luzzu is the most famous Maltese boat, but there are others. The kajjik (kai-yik) is a smaller version of the luzzu with a flat stern while the dghajsa (dai-sa) resembles the Venetian gondola. The frejgatina (frey-ga-tina) is a short-bowed boat intended to stay within the port for recreation or to ferry fishermen from shore to their vessels.
To truly relish the luzzu experience, ride in one. You could talk a fisherman into taking you for a ride and nothing could possibly beat that. Alternatively, and more likely possible, is taking a luzzu cruise. You can take a harbour cruise or go to Comino or even take a deep sea fishing trip. Nothing will prepare you for the slow chug of the luzzu and you'll realise why, when it comes to the fishing tradition, time seems to have stood still.
To enjoy the fruits of the luzzu’s very existence, do visit the Marsaxlokk fish market. Held daily and reaching massive proportions on a Sunday, the market offers much more than just fish and offers a perfect immersion into Mediterranean village life, with an opportunity to properly mingle with the locals, while they’re doing what they do. Here’s also an opportunity to get some great local souvenirs, including locally handmade lace and Maltese honey.
Finish off with a visit to a local fish restaurant to taste the fruits of the sea. Try some seafood that you may not be used to, such as octopus and calamari, as well as some delicious salty fish.