The day I visited Paulus in Bugibba one Saturday afternoon was an unusually warm spring day. In fact, it felt like summer weather, and my partner and I headed there (in t-shirts, our pallor exposed for the first time this season) with the enthusiasm usually reserved for long afternoon lunches in the sun. The warm weather worked up our appetite for fresh, light and tasty cuisine – and Paulus delivered on all fronts.

We were greeted by the hospitable head chef Giovanni as well as the owner’s wife, Irina, who left it to us to choose a table inside or out. While the restaurant’s interior is inviting and attractive, the choice was obvious for an outdoor table on such a glorious day, literally a stone’s throw away from the Bugibba jetty, with wonderful views of the sea, bobbing boats and strolling passers-by.

The experience

Keen to tell us about his way of doing things, Giovanni explained that, while the a la carte menu offers plenty of exciting options, he loves challenging patrons to try something different, even if that means adapting his dishes on the fly. “Some people like to experiment,” he said in his localised Italian accent, “but others are more cautious. At Paulus, the chefs take the orders, to understand what our clients want to eat and give them the best experience possible.” Raised by a Sicilian mother and a Calabrian father who both love cooking, Giovanni had the best of both worlds growing up – he learned about fresh fish and seafood preparation from his mother, and about meats and meat smoking from his father, giving him the necessary skills to work with both.

The fish display included sea bream (awrat), sea bass (spnott) and meagre (gurbell), as well as an inviting selection of cherry stone clams and Scottish oysters. Without further ado, Giovanni – who took the liberty of suggesting dishes which are the restaurant’s speciality, when available, and dishes he simply loves to prepare – set about preparing our starters while we sipped on a fresh and fruity southern Italian white Mandrarossa.

Warming up

My dining companion was treated to a portion of tagliolini neri cooked with a dash of cream, Sambuca and cherry tomatoes, served with king prawns and topped with fresh flowers. The presentation was lovely, and judging by his reaction, who’s more inclined to meat than fish, so was the flavour. I had to try it – and the chef was right. The hint of Sambuca complemented the seafood in the most unexpected and refreshing way imaginable.

My first course consisted of wild cherry stone clams sprinkled with fresh basil leaves and set in baked nests of aged Parmigiano cheese. The presentation scored full marks, and the combination of ingredients was exquisitely balanced – the flavour of the sweet and juicy clams contrasted with the sharpness of the six-month aged Parmigiano cheese, while a spoonful of sriracha mayonnaise on the side provided the right ending to cleanse the palate for the next course.

The main attraction

For mains, Giovanni treated us to a feast of flavours to share, and the stars of this course were undoubtedly a pair of Scottish oysters infused with gin and tonic. This combo was another unexpected choice of ingredients, but the alcohol successfully enhanced the oysters’ freshness, fulfilling the popular Maltese phrase “toghma ta’ bahar” (literally ‘taste of the sea’). Accompanying the dish was a palate cleanser of gin, tonic and lemon – the chef didn’t want us tasting seafood for the rest of the lunch, and his restorative drink was just what we needed to move on to the next plate.

Also to share was the menu option of swordfish involtini, made using thin slices of swordfish stuffed with pine nuts, green olives, garlic, mint and paprika, served with a side of potatoes and salad. The flavours of this dish were distinctly Mediterranean and zesty, and the texture of the flaky fish with crunchy nuts and chunky bits of Calabrian olives offered a truly sensorial experience. For those who aren’t huge on fish but are willing to try something other than meat, this dish is a great option packed with summer flavours.

Before dessert, we chatted with Irina, who explained that Paulus came under new management last August, and, seeing as this summer will be their first full one since taking over, the team is anticipating a busy season. “We like to be flexible with our menu,” she says, explaining that while the a la carte menu – with options ranging from starters, fresh pasta and risotto dishes to fresh fish and meat options, including their popular beef tagliata – is invitingly varied, they encourage patrons to adapt dishes to their liking. “Giovanni loves a challenge – the kitchen is his playground, and his Sicilian style, especially with fish, is second to none.”

The sweetest ending

Light as fish is, we were pretty stuffed towards the end of the meal, but a long lunch is incomplete without dessert, so we caved and left it to the chef to prepare something for us to share. Cue a colourful plate of deconstructed Sicilian cannoli with sweet sheep’s milk ricotta, candied fruit, mint and a sprinkle of ground pistachios. It’s a feast for the eyes and taste buds – the creamy ricotta paired wonderfully with the crunchy cannolo wedges, and we savoured every crumb, wishing we had space for more.

Dining at Paulus was an enjoyable experience from start to finish, and Chef Giovanni’s recommendations were true to form. The unusual flavour pairings were exciting, the presentation was spot on, and there could be nothing but praise for the quality and freshness of the food, particularly the fish. Our verdict? Get booking!