Malta, Gozo and Comino are rock climbing heaven.
Climbing in Malta is awesome. Apart from the fact that locals refer to the island as 'the rock', there are many outdoor routes offering different climbing scenarios and spectacular views. Actually, despite being much smaller, Gozo has as many climbing routes as Malta, if not more. The climbing routes are usually in caves, valleys or sea cliffs and you can see some of the most scenic sunsets ever! A word of warning: you’ll never see a climbing gym in the same way again.
Top locations for a variety of climbing scenarios
Wied Babu, Malta
Try a variety of vertical climbs, such as the ones found at Wied Babu, where you will find lots of pockets in the rock to help you climb. Here’s one of the island’s most picturesque valleys with high vertical climbs in a wide range of grades, from very easy to very hard climbs.
Lapsi, Malta
Dare to go on an overhanging climb, and you'll find in caves such as those at Lapsi. This is one of the best spots for climbing in Malta. Expect caves and overhangs set in cliffs high above the sea, with lots of routes of different grades, from easy to advanced.
Xaqqa Valley
Tackle a slabby climb, such as that at Xaqqa, which looks very smooth and impossible to climb, yet is manageable due to the angle, cracks and a special technique.
Mgarr ix-Xini, Gozo
Here’s a beautiful valley in Gozo that’s got a wide selection of amazing climbs, conveniently set in a stunning environment that will blow your mind.
Wied il-Mielah, Gozo
How about challenging multi-pitches, where the wall is so high that the rope doesn't reach, so you have to do it in sections, such as at Wied il-Mielah? These are also some of the best sea cliffs to climb on the islands, starting at sea level to about 40 metres, so the exposure is really nice...plus there's a wonderful window!
Santa Marija Caves, Comino
Finally, there’s Deep Water Soloing (DWS), where you climb over the sea without a safety rope, such as at the cliffs of Comino. The best deep water soloing is at these spectacular sea cliffs, with gaping caves opening up.
There are many more climbing spots to enjoy in Malta, such as Wied il-Ghasel in Mosta, the Victoria Lines, Mistra, and Latnija Sinkhole in Mellieha, for example. There's also Xlendi or Sopu Tower in Gozo.
Comino is best for DWS but there are other good spots, such as Lapsi and Ghar Hasan in Malta, as well as in Gozo. Bouldering, where you climb sideways without a rope, is also easy to enjoy almost anywhere on the islands; just be aware that limestone is soft and crumbles easily and, unless you are climbing over water, mats or a spotter are recommended.
Where to start
Famous climbers such as Tommy Caldwell and others have graced Malta’s rock walls, but you can have a shot even if you have never climbed before!
Climbing, as a sport, is done with a partner, because someone is feeding the safety rope and somebody is climbing. It is, therefore, also suitable for absolute beginners, because you can have a top rope that will keep you always safe from falling.
For Bouldering or DWS, which can be done alone, do have a partner in case of a bad fall. Please always take the right precautions.
You can contact either of two climbing groups in Malta - Malta Rock Climbing Club and the Malta Climbing Club - to find a partner and to discover the best climbing spots in Malta and Gozo.
This article just gives you a small taster but there’s nothing like an insider’s tips, so get in touch with the local climbing community and let them guide you!
There's also a good guide book available for experienced fanatics wanting to check out all the routes and their grades. Yet, one word of advice from a local climber:
"You can choose to pursue grades but the true spirit of climbing is to enjoy doing it - enjoy the moment and enjoy the environment, and if you get better at it, that’s a bonus."
You certainly have a lot to enjoy on Malta.